Kitchen3N

Recipes and food fun from Apt 3N

Stone Fruit Crostata

I don’t know at what point I got the inspiration to make this. I’m not one of those people who go ga-ga over summer fruit. I pretty much prefer a chocolate dessert any time of the week (or year). And the work involved in making a crust, rolling it out, refrigerating – usually too much for my lazy self. But I went to the farmers market this past Sunday and OD’ed on my fruit purchases. There were just so many different kinds of plums. And nectarines, and peaches, oh my! Or maybe it was the barrage of emails I was getting about galettes (french for crostata) from other food bloggers. This may be a good time to mention what this thing is: a free form pie. A rustic dessert that can be filled with pretty much any fruit of choice. Anywho, I thought, now is the time. IMG_1358 Except making the crust wasn’t the labor intensive part…cutting all this fruit was! The peaches were fine but the plums and nectarines were impossible to pit without turning it into mush. So, you have to cut out each wedge, one by one, with an exact motion away from the pit in order to get decent slices. IMG_1361 This is an example of how not to fill the dough: on the wooden board where you roll it out as opposed to on the parchment paper itself. Transferring it to the parchment paper lined baking sheet was a nightmare. It got so wet and soggy from the fruit juices that we (my sister and I ) just barely made the transfer without turning the whole thing into a giant fruity baked donut.IMG_1365 This pastry has wonderful buttery crumb topping. And the crust is perfect in its simplicity. No vanilla, no cinnamon. Just pure butter, sugar, flour (and a bit of salt). Keeps me coming back for more! Though I did not excel at the folding over and pleating part. And given this batch of fruit, it needed a bit more sugar for our taste. So, we topped it with some powdered sugar and served with a scoop of ice cream (white chocolate raspberry truffle to be exact).IMG_1368 The day was coming to an end by the time I got around to taking these pictures, so the only sun filled surface left was the kids’ toy chest. I think that’s ok. As long as you can see the food, right?IMG_1375Recipe just barely adapted from Ina Garten. Keep in mind, this makes two crostatas so if you planning on freezing the other dough for later, make sure to cut down the prepared fruit by half. I only pictured one here since the other one came out not so pretty from the transfer.

Ingredients

For the pastry

  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1/4 cup granulated or superfine sugar (I use raw sugar, just give it a whir in the food processor beforehand)
  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1/2 pound (2 sticks) cold unsalted butter, diced
  • 6 tablespoons (3 ounces) ice water

For the filling:

  • 1 pound firm ripe peaches, unpeeled
  • 1 pound firm ripe plums, unpeeled
  • 1 tablespoon plus 1/4 cup all-purpose flour, divided
  • 1 tablespoon plus 1/4 cup granulated sugar, divided
  • 1/4 teaspoon grated orange zest
  • 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice
  • 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) cold unsalted butter, diced

Directions

For the pastry:

Place the flour, sugar, and salt in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Pulse a few times to combine. Add the butter and toss quickly (and carefully!) with your fingers to coat each cube of butter with the flour. Pulse 12 to 15 times, or until the butter is the size of peas. With the motor running, add the ice water all at once through the feed tube. Keep hitting the pulse button to combine, but stop the machine just before the dough comes together. Turn the dough out onto a well-floured board, roll it into a ball, cut in half, and form into 2 flat disks. Wrap the disks in plastic and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. If you only need 1 disk of dough The other disk of dough can be frozen.

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Roll the pastry into an 11-inch circle on a lightly floured surface. Transfer it to the baking sheet.

For the filling:

Cut the peaches and plums in wedges and place them in a bowl. Toss them with 1 tablespoon of the flour, 1 tablespoon of the sugar, the orange zest, and the orange juice. Place the mixed fruit on the dough circle, leaving a 1 1/2-inch border.

Combine the 1/4 cup flour, the 1/4 cup sugar, and the salt in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture is crumbly. Pour into a bowl and rub it with your fingers until it starts to hold together. Sprinkle evenly over the fruit. Gently fold the border of the pastry over the fruit, pleating it to make an edge.

Bake the crostata for 20 to 25 minutes, until the crust is golden and the fruit is tender. Let the crostata cool for 5 minutes, then use 2 large spatulas to transfer it to a wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Haleem

IMG_1248Warning: this post isn’t about finding the mother of all haleem recipes. I’m not even gonna say it will give your grandma’s a run for her money (though it’s darn good). No, this post is about accessibility. Haleem is not an enigma. Sure, there’s barley, wheat, lentils, even dried papaya. But you don’t have to go out of your way looking for ingredients you don’t usually stock your pantry with. Nor do you have to run to Jamaica or Jackson Heights, or wherever you go for your fix. Instead, you pick up a box of Shan’s Easy Cook Haleem mix and get ready to wow the salwars off your friends and family.

IMG_1234Let me first back up a bit for those of you who aren’t familiar. Haleem is a thick, spicy stew made by creating a flavorful broth of spices and meat (usually goat meat or chicken), then thickening with lentils, barley and wheat. It is traditionally eaten during Ramadan, at iftar (or evening breakfast). But it’s so warm, spicy and hearty – it’s really ideal for the dead of winter!

The box includes a spice mix (which you totally don’t need all of). It is really, really spicy and salty, so I only use like 2/3 of the packet. Use 1/2 if you’re a spice eating lightweight. It also includes the lentils and grains, pulverized, so you wouldn’t need to soak them overnight like in a traditional haleem. Again – accessibility! The instructions neglect one very important ingredient: garlic/ginger paste (or finely minced garlic and ginger). Make sure to add a good heaping tablespoon to the meat as it cooks. And finally, contrary to what it says on the box, it is not ready in 30 minutes, even if you have a pressure cooker! For me, goat meat (or mutton) takes a good hour and half over a low flame, with the lid on, to get fully tender. I also get the onions going very early on, because I like to caramelize my onions low and slow. Once you do add the grains, they tend to clump up. So add them slowly, and stir continually, to breakdown any clumps.

meat and onions, going side by sidethe finished productTraditionally, you serve it with chopped cilantro, grated ginger, crispy onions, a slice of lemon/lime, and perhaps some green chilis. Not here. I loathe fresh ginger and raw chilis. I just like to add the cilantro and citrus to brighten up an otherwise long-going stew (cook time was 2 hrs!). This serves about 8-10 people. And even though Ramadan is coming to an end, it’s a great dish for your Eid spread!

Ingredients

  • 1 box Shan Haleem mix (including spice mix and grains)
  • 1/2 cup oil
  • 1 heaping tbsp garlic/ginger paste
  • 1.5 lbs mutton or chicken (don’t cop out and make the chicken one!), cut into pieces
  • 15 cups water
  • 1 large onion, or 2 medium
  • cilantro, fried onion, ginger, green chilis and/or lemon wedge for garnish

Directions

  1. In a large pot, heat up half a cup of vegetable oil or ghee over medium high heat. Add 1/2 to 2/3 of the spice packet. Add the meat and garlic/ginger paste and stir to combine.
  2. Add water, bring to a boil over high heat. Then lower the heat, put the lid back on and simmer for an hour, hour and a half. Stir occasionally to make sure no funky stuff is going on. Meat should be tender and falling off the bones when done. Taste for seasoning.
  3. While the meat is going, thinly slice the onion and add to a separate fry pan over low heat, to two tablespoons oil. Stir occasionally, increasing frequency towards the end. It take a bit of babysitting (after about 20 minutes) to make sure the edges don’t burn. Once they’re browned, turn off the heat.
  4. Meanwhile, from the haleem pot: take the meat out, and shred it using your hands or two forks. Then add the meat back into the broth along with the contents of the grains packet. Stir continuously to make sure there are no clumps. After 20-30 minutes, add caramelized onions and remove from heat. Add a cup of water if it looks too thick.
  5. Serve with cilantro, fried onion, slices of ginger, green chilis and/or lemon/lime.

Mint Limeade

IMG_1178Ramadan Kareem to all those who are observing the holiday! The days are long and the fasts are difficult but alhamdulillah (praise be to God), it makes you grateful for the food and drink you have waiting for you at iftar (evening breakfast). Many of us are blessed with comfortable homes, plenty of food and loving families. Part of the reason we fast is to remember those of us who are less fortunate. The Muslims being persecuted in Myanmar. The innocents dying everyday in Syria. Through this remembrance and appreciation of our blessings, we cultivate a closer relationship with God. Ramadan also brings to light the culinary diversity of Muslims around the world. Dates are an iftar staple, as that was the tradition of Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him). Otherwise you might have kutaeif (a type of pancake) in Palestine. Kolak or cendol (sweet drinks) in Indonesia. Güllaç (a rosewater dessert) in Turkey. Back in Bangladesh, iftar consists of the following: cucumber slices, soaked lentils with raw ginger, puffed rice, fruit and a plethora of fried vegetables and lentils bathed in a thick gram flour batter. Sometimes they even fry this oversized hot pepper and eat it as is!! And I have to say: I hate it. I am sorry. I love Bengali food. I loathe the iftars. The raw ginger. The bland lentils. The batter that is so thick that the vegetables got lost in them. And whose idea was it to break your fast with fried foods anyway? The only exception is the potato patties (studded with pieces of hard boiled egg) and HALEEM. OMG. Haleem is to the subcontinent what Pho is to Vietnam (well, technically nihari is) in that it just a bowl of simmering, goat, lentil and barley deliciousness. I’ll post about it later, but for now, the drinks.

my little helper

my little helper

preparing the mint simple syrup

preparing the mint simple syrup

Though the foods may vary, one thing is pretty consistent: a cool, refreshing drink to down it all with. I’ve had all kinds of sweet concoctions with my iftars growing up. From lemonade (using lemons I squeezed by hand, and sugar that I dissolved by stirring and stirring and stirring…) to Tang and Rooh Afza (probably the bane of my existence). Mango lassi is a common one as well, but ever since I had a taste of my first virgin mojito, mint limeade has been the go to sweet drink at our household. Thanks to a huge bunch of mint leaves brought over by my in laws this past weekend, I was able to make a batch of that mint syrup I posted about ages ago. I add some sparkling water for effervescence and sprigs of fresh mint for visuals.

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My not so traditional iftar of homemade pizza with all the fixins

Ingredients

  • 1/2 cup lime juice (juice from about 3 limes)
  • 1 cup mint simple syrup
  • 1 to 1.5 cups sparkling water
  • ice
  • 2 mint sprigs

Directions

  1. Combine all the ingredients in a pitcher and stir to combine.

Note: if you’re too lazy to make the mint syrup, feel free to simply add sugar to taste and a few handfuls of mint leaves (be sure to muddle the leaves with a muddler or end of a wooden spoon to release the juices). Superfine sugar dissolves more easily than regular, so you can run it through a food processor to get it fine. I personally use raw sugar, which gives my limeade a nice amber color.

Olio, Aglio & Peperoncino

IMG_1153For most people, the holy trinity means the Catholic theological doctrine of the Father, Son and Holy Ghost. For those in the culinary world, it usually means carrots, celery and onion. But for me, it really is olio, aglio & peperoncino (oil, garlic and pepper). On busy weeknights, it is your best friend. Heat up some garlic and crushed red pepper flakes in a pool of extra virgin olive oil and you have the base for a flavorful, fast meal in minutes. Throw in cooked spaghetti, spinach, green beans, or broccolini. Or use it to dress up fish or chicken breasts before grilling. Remember to filter out the pieces of garlic and pepper, of course, otherwise it burns. Once you do that, the whole thing becomes a super versatile garlic and pepper infused oil.

IMG_1143I first came across it in one of my first cookbooks, Giada’s Everyday Italian. I didn’t even take a second glance until my semester abroad in Rome. Seriously, a protein-less meal? But restaurants actually had it on their menu. And the prospect of a home cooked meal for basically the price of a box of spaghetti was more than appealing to my broke college student self.

But even after Rome, after getting married, when I found myself cooking for a guy with the overstimulated palette of a south asian, the combination of these three ingredients amped up the flavor of just about any meal.

I made this most recently the classic way. I think it’s a dish best served simply, with basil or parmigiano (though, to be honest, I haven’t tried it with the medley of herbs that Giada tops it with). Mangia bene!

IMG_4694Here it is doing its thang on some roasted shrimp.

Adapted from Giada De Laurentiis.

Ingredients

  • 1 pound dried spaghetti
  • 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 3 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced thinly
  • 1 tablespoon red pepper flakes (1 tsp if you can’t take the heat)
  • fresh parmigiano reggiano and/or basil chiffonade to top

Directions

  1. In a large pot, bring six quarts of water to a boil. Add a handful of salt and add pasta. Cook six to eight minutes, stirring occasionally.
  2. Meanwhile, heat olive oil over low heat. Add garlic and pepper and cook until fragrant, about a minute. Remove from heat.
  3. In a large bowl, add the pasta using a pair of tongs, keeping the cooking liquid in the pot. Add the oil, a ladle of the pasta water and toss to combine. Top with Parmigiano Reggiano, Basil, Pecorino Romano, Parsley – whatever you like!

La Boulangerie

I had one of those TV pregnancy moments last year when I woke up one Monday and desperately craved pain au chocolat from La Boulangerie. So, my husband faithfully made the trek before the start of his workday only to come home with wannabes from another Forest Hills bakery. I may have shed a tear. But I learned a very important thing: my favorite bakery is closed on Mondays.

I realize when most people come to Austin Street, they grab a slice of the “famous” red velvet cake from Martha’s, or one of their pretty good napoleons or chocolate mousse cakes, but hopefully not any of their awful cheesecakes or mediocre cupcakes. But if you’re a local, you’re going to stand in line for a real, buttery, carefully crafted croissant, or an eclair filled with a heavenly chocolate mousse, or a classic french baguette at La Boulangerie. Forest Hills has long been a good-bread starved neighborhood, or come to think of it, any good food. You have your standard sushi, pizza, and everything in between. But La Boulangerie is one of those places that has a certain transportive power. Where the owner has actually worked on his craft and stayed loyal to traditional techniques. And the decor is rustic with unpolished wooden furniture yet tasteful with quality serveware, so that you feel like you’re in Breton (except I doubt they serve large cafe lattes in France).

IMG_4621Depending on the time of day, you may or may not find the treat you were anticipating. They’re so good, they just run out (but they’re working on another batch, unless it’s past 5PM). I have tried just about everything from the apricot cheese danish, to chocolate almond croissant, parisian flan to gateau breton. They pretty much all satisfy your craving for a rich buttery indulgence (though admittedly, I am not as big a fan of the croissants as many other patrons).

And if it’s a savory treat or meal you prefer, they offer:

  • soups, which vary daily
  • sandwiches (classics, like ham and brie)
  • foccaccia
  • quiches (delicious)
  • salads (nicoise, etc.)
  • and eggs on weekends

All with giant windows looking onto the kitchens so you can watch the chefs and bakers do their magic.IMG_4618

A big plus for parents are the children’s books (in English and French) that are perfect for keeping little hands busy while you take five two minutes to yourself. That, or the  Jacques Torres chocolates available for purchase.

Coffee is strong but good. But careful when ordering a large latte – they are served in big handle-less soup bowls for some reason.

Finally, if it’s bread you are fiending for, apart from the traditional french baguette, the pain aux cereales and pain bordelais are highly celebrated.

So, happy eating!

La Boulangerie

109-01 72nd Rd
Forest Hills, NY 11375
347-644-5606

Khichuri (Rice and Mung Bean pilaf)

IMG_0942For Bengalis, rain does not mean good books, cozy blankets or hunter boots. Nor does snow signal hot chocolate, snowmen or shoveling. No, for Bengalis, any sort of precipitation means only one thing: khichuri. Growing up, I always noticed, though never understood why on any overcast, slightly cool day, the first thing my dad would request was khichuri. I’d think to myself, in the usual teenage overly dramatic Holden Caulfield voice: Khichuri is just rice and daal cooked together…WHAT is the big deal? So, like Peter in The Snowy Day (can you tell I’ve been reading a lot of big and little people classics?), I thought and thought and thought about it.

IMG_0939What I noticed was this: khichuri is almost always accompanied by things you’re likely to have on hand. A quick omelet with onions and green chilis. A raw onion and red pepper bhorta (mashed with salt and mustard oil). Or any variety of pickles. Because people back home aren’t likely to venture out to the bazaar on a rainy day. Slinging through the mud when perhaps the vendors themselves might not even show up. This might be a foreign concept to someone who lives in New York, where you can find someone on a jet ski in the middle of a hurricane. But in Bangladesh, where intermittent electricity and insufficient refrigeration send most to the bazaar on a daily basis (often on unpaved roads), an excuse to stay home most welcome.

I like to use a short grain, fragrant rice called Kalijeera for my khichuri. The mung bean (moong dal) can be swapped out for red lentils (masoor dal) but will of course change the taste of the dish. And though I initially stated that Bengali precipitation associations don’t include any sort of warm or fuzzies, that’s not 100% accurate. Once the rice and lentils/beans have steamed to perfection along with all the warm spices, the aroma that wafts out of the kitchen is the olfactory equivalent of great big bear hug.

IMG_0950Ingredients

  • 1 cup mung bean
  • 2 tbsp vegetable oil
  • 1 small onion, diced
  • 1 tbsp garlic/ginger paste or 4 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1/4 tsp turmeric
  • 1/4 tsp coriander
  • 6 tbsp butter
  • 2 cups rice, rinsed thoroughly to remove excess starch
  • 7 cups water
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • 4 cardamom pods
  • 4 cloves
  • 4 peppercorns
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 2 tsp salt (or to taste)
  • 2 green chilis

Directions

  • In a medium to large stock pot, toast the mung bean over medium high heat until fragrant and slightly browned. Empty into a separate container and set aside.
  • Pour oil into the pot and add the onions. After softening for 4 to 5 minutes, add the garlic/ginger, turmeric and coriander. Mix well. Add the rice, toasted mung bean and butter and mix until well combined and the butter is melted.
  • Add the remaining ingredients, stir and bring to a boil over high heat. Then, reduce to a simmer over low heat and cover. Should be done in 15 to 20 minutes. Check for doneness at 15 minutes, fluff with a fork, and continue to steam for an extra 5 minutes if needed. Check for seasoning. I needed 2.5 tsp of kosher salt.

Keep in mind this recipe is the best I could do between my mother and mother in law’s recipes, where ingredients are stated in handfuls, liquids measured by the finger, and seasoning is always to taste. God bless them =)

Mango Time

For most people, this time of year means cherry blossoms, longer days, warmer weather, or taxes. For me, it’s mango season. They hold a permanent place in my fruit bowl during the warmer months. There has been a steady trickle of the fruit with each and every visit from nana or nanu, since the first day my daughter uttered the word “am” (bengali for mango). And when the season’s first real ones came in, that trickle became a waterfall, with literally boxes of the golden treats coming through the door every week. Not complaining here. In fact, I feel kind of guilty. We have access to an exceptional source: Jackson Heights. Not sure why, even at the specialty grocery store here in Forest Hills, I haven’t found the quality or quantity available in my old hood.

There are three types of mangos available on the market (disclaimer: no scientific nomenclature here):

MangoTime.001The traditional ones most Americans think of when they think of mango. Big, round, partially red, partially green. They have a bright, sometimes tangy flavor accompanying the sweetness. Buy them, let them ripen on the counter for 3 days and wow – deliciously delicious.

MangoTime.002Secondly, these have become more popular in recent years. The smaller, more oval, yellow guys (some places call them champagne, others call them Alfonso). They have a more mellow flavor than the other two. The seed is very small so there’s more flesh to enjoy.

MangoTime.003Finally, these big green guys hail from Haiti. You didn’t see much of them before but due to their bright, unique flavor, people are asking for them. You can find them more and more at your local grocery. They are a bit fibrous for some and like the other mangoes require some ripening on the counter before diving into.

General signs of readiness:

  1. As with most produce, give it a smell taste. If it smells like a mango, dig in.
  2. Slight wrinkles
  3. Black dots all over, sometimes with a little bit of dried sap at the top
  4. Gives slightly when you squeeze it

IMG_0905Ways to enjoy:

  1. The way they do back home: bite off a small piece at the bottom and suck all the pulp and juice through it. It gets messy.
  2. My favorite way: peel it with a knife or vegetable peeler and just go at it over the sink with all the glorious juice running down your arms.
  3. Score it: hold it upright on your cutting board and cut in the same plane as the seed, getting as close to it as you can. You’ll end up with two hemispheres that you can score with a knife (either into cubes or spears) and dig out with a spoon. This way is best if you have small mouths to feed.
  4. In a lassi. This is essentially a South Asian smoothie. I added some milk to thin mine out. Sweeten according to the batch of mangoes you have. Here is a basic recipe:

Ingredients

  • 1 cup plain yogurt (not greek)
  • about 1.5 cups diced mango or mango pulp
  • 1/2 cup milk
  • 1/2 cup ice (optional)
  • a dash of salt
  • sugar or simple syrup

Directions

  1. Put all ingredients into a blender and blend until ice is crushed and the lassi is smooth. About 2 minutes. IMG_0908

On Butter

IMG_0865I didn’t grow up eating butter. My eggs were fried in vegetable oil. We spread country crock vegetable spread on our toast. The only time I saw butter were in big blocks in the freezer that my mother eventually cooked down to make ghee, which was reserved for bengali mashed potatoes (like yours except with raw onions and green chilis but definitely no milk) and biryani (morog palau in bengali, rice and meat pilaf in english). Why the discrimination against butter? As my sister explained, butter does not do so well in tropical climates. So, by removing the milk solids from it, they are able to preserve it for longer. Which makes sense given what a commodity it is over there.

So when I left the nest, I started buying butter FOR REAL. Not to spite tradition or anything. I made the change simply because it felt more wholesome, less artificial than some of the alternatives. And there is definitely something to be said for consuming moderate amounts of natural fats rather than hydrogenated vegetable fat. Or using a small amount of flavorful fat (eg olive oil) rather than vasts amount of corn oil to make your food taste good. Though, admittedly, I have been tip toeing the line between moderate and excessive only because of this:  IMG_0867

OH MY GOD. You have not lived until you’ve had one of these high fat content european butters (puglia is another one) on your toast, topped with a sprinkling of powdered sugar. I know because I went sky diving. This is better than sky diving. I never cared to spend the extra money on these before, until I read Dorie Greenspan’s take on these french butter cookies. The lady knows what she’s doing, so I picked up a bar of one of these at my local TJ’s. I have not looked back!

So, the next time you are thinking of whipping up a batch of Sunday morning pancakes (I use a combo of whole wheat flour and almond meal in mine) or super easy French toast, try adding a little bit of gourmet to the mix. You won’t regret it! Then perhaps we’ll all ease up a bit on Paula. IMG_0871On a final note: remember to use the salted butter on your pancakes, french toast, etc. The sweet/salty combo takes it over the edge!

Mashed Eggplant (Begun Bhorta)

IMG_0824

I feel like most people, when asked what their favorite vegetable is, would say corn or butternut squash or potatoes (though I bet they actually like the salt and fat that comes with the potatoes). Or perhaps mushrooms. But not me. I. Love. Eggplant. Stewed with tomatoes (imam biyaldi). Simply fried with salt and turmeric (chaak bhaji). In a curry with the insanely boney hilsa fish. In the Sicilian sweet/savory relish known as caponata. In every way except babaghanoush (sorry, haters gon hate). Or this way: charred over an open flame, peeled then mashed with simmering onions, tomatoes, garlic and spices.

IMG_0816Now, I know traditionally a bhorta consists of some boiled or steamed vegetable (or dried fish) mashed or really well mixed with raw onion, Thai chilli, mustard oil, salt and cilantro. But one fine day my mom made this and said hey, this is begun bhorta. And even though the cooking process more closely resembles a mishti kumro ghonto (think: spiced, simmered pumpkin mush), it stuck.

IMG_0809 Charring it is a bit of a pain. The juices get all over the burner. Peeling the charred pieces of skin is a pain. But the payoff is well worth it. You could perhaps do it under the broiler. I haven’t given it a go. Right now I am sticking to tried and true methods of prep. So, here it is:

Ingredients:

1 medium eggplant, poked all around with a knife or fork
1 tbsp olive oil
1 small onion, diced (yellow or red)
2 cloves garlic, minced (or 1tsp garlic paste)
1 tomato, diced
1/4 tsp cumin
1/4 tsp turmeric
1/4 tsp coriander
A pinch of chilli powder
1/2 tsp salt, plus more to taste
A handful of fresh cilantro

Directions:

Over a medium flame, start charring the eggplant by placing directly onto heat and rotating using a pair of tongs every two minutes or so (or with your fingers if you’re hardcore like my mom). It should be cooked all the way through in about 10 to 12 minutes. Prep the rest of the ingredients in the meantime.

When the eggplant is done, remove from heat and allow to cool. Then peel off the skin using your fingers or tongs, doing the best you can to get as much of it off as you can. Cut off the top and set aside.

Heat oil over medium high heat in a wok or fry pan. Add onions and tomatoes. Allow to soften a few minutes, then add garlic and the rest of the spices/seasonings (if you only have garlic/ginger paste on hand, use that). Add the eggplant and break up any chunks using a wooden spoon. Lower the heat to medium/medium low. Mix it all together and let the flavors combine while prepping the cilantro.

Off the heat, add the cilantro and check for seasoning. Serve with basmati rice or roti.

Note: as with most bengali cooking, you do not need to follow a recipe to a T to get fantastic results. Feel free to use chopped Thai chili in lieu of the chili powder. Or a dash of mustard oil for more of a kick. For example, I had some extra red pepper on hand so I added it. Made it look a ton prettier. Just don’t skimp on the charring because it really makes this dish.

Bengali Chicken Curry

IMG_6344There is no coconut milk in your chicken curry if you are Bengali. There is no curry paste or any other amalgamation of ingredients someone else deems necessary for your comfort-in-a-bowl chicken curry. There is only your mother, your childhood, the pieces of white meat that no one ever wanted, the potatoes that you cared for only on some days, the jhol (broth) that was literally chicken soup for your soul (but only the first day, after that it just got too cardamom-y), and the leftover bones that you LOVED to chew on as you churned out every last drop of flavor but NEVER admitted to doing outside of bengali circles.

Of course this is my childhood we are recollecting and thus my mother’s recipe. There is very little room for improvement…though one could probably use chicken stock (even better, homemade chicken stock) in lieu of the water. Let’s leave that for another day, another post. For now, amidst the pristine image laid out for you of a little girl enjoying every minute of being elbow deep in her favorite food, there are some hidden perils that threaten. Hear me out: have you ever, during the course of your meal ever landed on a “flavor bomb” ? One of those whole peppercorns, cloves or worse, entire cardamom pod?? It’s disgusting! It’s painful! It’s downright heinous. Takes half the joy out of the meal. I just thought of taking the extra step of pouring the jhol through a sieve and voila! Flavor. Bomb. Out.

I hope this recipe takes you back to your childhood!

Ingredients

  • 1/4 cup vegetable oil
  • 1 medium yellow onion, sliced
  • 1 heaping tsp cumin power
  • 1 heaping tsp coriander
  • 1 tsp turmeric
  • 1/2 tsp chili powder (use more or less depending on the potency of your chili powder and how spicy you like it)
  • 1 3 lb chicken cut into curry pieces (either 10 or 12 pieces in total)
  • 1 tsp garlic paste (or minced garlic)
  • 1 tsp ginger paste (or minced ginger)
  • 1 – 1.5 cups of water (water should come about 2/3 of the way up the sides, not covering the meat)
  • 1.5 tsp kosher salt, plus more to taste
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 cinnamon stick or 1 tsp ground cinnamon
  • 4 whole cloves
  • 4 whole cardamom pods or 1/4 tsp cardamom
  • 5-6 whole peppercorns

Directions

  1. Heat the oil over medium high heat in a saucepan or any medium sized pot (about 4 qts) with high sides. Add the onion and let soften for 4-5 min. While onion cooks, prep your garlic and ginger, if necessary, and combine the ground spices in a bowl.
  2. Add spices to the onions, mixing well. Add the chicken pieces, turning to coat with as much of the masala mixture as possible. Let the chicken and spices cook for 4-5 minutes, taking care not to burn the spices (reduce the heat if necessary). Add garlic, ginger, water, salt, bay leaf, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom and peppercorns. Stir, then increase the heat to bring to a boil.
  3. Reduce to a simmer and cover. Let simmer for 20-25 minutes, removing the lid during the last 10 minutes if there is too much liquid.
  4. Check for seasoning. Add more salt or spice as needed.
  5. Optional: Transfer chicken pieces to a serving bowl. Pour the broth through a sieve to catch all the whole spices and push through all the last bits of curry through the sieve using a spoon.

Variations

For a bigger (4 to 5 lb chicken)

  • 1/3 cup vegetable oil
  • 1.5 to 2 small yellow onions, sliced
  • 1.5 heaping tsp cumin power
  • 1.5 heaping tsp coriander
  • 1.5 tsp turmeric
  • 3/4 tsp chili powder (use more of less depending on the potency of your chili powder and how spicy you like it)
  • 1 4 to 5 lb chicken cut into curry pieces (about 12 in total)
  • 1.5 tsp garlic paste (or minced garlic)
  • 1.5 tsp ginger paste (or minced ginger)
  • about 2 cups of water
  • 2 tsp kosher salt, plus more to taste
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • 5-6 whole cloves
  • 5-6 whole cardamom pods
  • 7-8 whole peppercorns

Increase cooking time by 2-3 minutes, testing the thickest part of the thigh to check for doneness.

To give it a refresh

Try sautéing some tomatoes into a large fry pan or wok and add the leftover chicken curry. When thoroughly heated through, remove from heat and add some chopped fresh cilantro.